When we first arrived in the altiplano of Bolivia I wondered why in the world anyone would choose to live in such a cold dry barren landscape. Then I arrived in the jungle.
The jungle is so hot and humid that in the heat of the day it feels like you´re drowning. Bitting insects. holy shit. never have I encountered such a over-abundance of biting, stinging, buzzing, burrowing creatures in my life. In the jungle my body is dirty and sweaty and itchy every second of every day and night.
Despite the phsical misery of jugle life, I, mostly, love it here in the lowlands. We have been working with the rio benni health project building water filters and spent the last three days delivering eight filters to a very small isolated community down river from Rurre. For less than twenty dollars and a lot of sweat, we provided families with clean drinking water. incredible. The filters are very simple, made of concrete, sand, gravel and a bit of plastic tubing, require very little maitenance, and last an average of ten years. Each family pays ten dollars for the filters so that they are invested in caring for them. Access to clean drinking water is life changing and being part of providing this basic human right to eight made up for the gallons of sweat a produced lugging concrete and sand. The nights spent playing and dancing with the children almost makes up for the incessant itching. added bonus: I got to hold a wild amazonian tarantula!! absolutly horrifying, but really really cool!!!
if you want to read more about the health project go to: www.netzerbrady.org
(i´m thinking about doing some work with them as well as with a farm that practices agro forestry when i (probably) come back in the spring)

Up next: three days in the pampas to see amazing wildlife. A visit to the el ceibo factory, makers of delicious organic chocolate. Three days of homestays in Tocaña, an afro bolivian community, where we will be working along side them in their coca fields. Finally back to La Paz to get ready for two weeks in Peru! time is running out....

love to all!!

La Paz

Thanks to mom for posting a most unflatering birthday photo. I´m wearing my birthday present, traditional cholita dress. I can´t pull it of nearly as well as my host mother.

Yesterday I left my host family is Sorata. very hard, very sad. I really hope I´ll have the oportunity to return sometime.

For anyone who was wondering, the poop scale has climbed to a 5 (thats good!!!). I´m feeling much much better but am currently spending two days in the city of La Paz with Helen and Molly (who has a broken ankle) while the rest of the group is out on trek. We´re going to cook grilled cheese sandwhiches tonight!!!

Off to buy some humitas for lunch. yummm. I may return to the internet tonight for a more extended update and Molly said she would show me how to upload some photos!

Love to all!!!!

Birthday Smile

I am sharing this photo of Emily on her birthday (from the Dragons website). I expect that she will post an update soon.

Quick Update

Quick Update:

Evo is coming to Sorata tomorrow!!!!! I get to hear a president speak on my birthday, Pretty awesome present.
I have been having a wonderful time in the produce market, talking to everyone, young and old about life. Everyone has ns of questions about the US. Most have no idea where it is in relationship to Bolivia. A few days ago it was decided for me that I should stay in Sorata forever, find a nice Bolivian boyfriend, and work in the market with them, I pointed out the one tiny flaw with this plan, my boyfriend would be no taller than my shoulder. There are now hourly jokes about the height of my Bolivian boyfriend.
As I’ve gotten to know people better we’ve had much more personal talks about dreams for the future, with the younger girls/women, and their past, with the older women. Its very common for people my age to be pregnant or have kids and be living with a boyfriend. Everyone I talk to says they want more for themselves and their children.
The panaderia I work in is incredible. The make an untold number of pieces of bread every day (I asked Don Helena how many and she simply said “arto”). I help to shape balls of dough into flat disks. In the beginning I sucked. Don Helena would have to fix every single one I attempted to make. I swear dough does not stick to the hands of the old women who I work with but it definitely sticks to my hands. Even now the women easily make five for every one I make. The bread is cooked in an enormous wood fired oven, the reason it is the best bread in Sorata. Thinking about eating the hot bread fresh out of the oven makes my mouth water even now.
I’m still sick. Don’t read any further unless you want to be grossed out cause here come the gory details. I’ve had diarrhea for over two weeks. (plus I have a wicked cold but in comparison it’s not a big deal at all). In two weeks I’ve yet to climb higher than a two on the poop scale (that’s basically chocolate milk). I am forced to get up multiple times every night to squat over an already foul latrine. Before this trip I did not think that one of my frequent expenses would be toilet paper. A course of antibiotics did not help. Last night I started two different medicines for parasites. Grosss. Crister helpfully pointed out that if I’m lucky I’ll be able to see the worms that I may poop out. Woohoo!! I can’t wait. I’m really hoping this medicine does the trick. If not I will be heading to La Paz on Tuesday to poop in a cup.

Some interesting theories for why I’ve been sick so long.
My host mom: I ate a cookie the other day; all I need to do to get better is drink more cocoa tea.
My host sister (16): I’m too far away from my boyfriend; this only furthers her point that I should get a Bolivian boyfriend.
My Brazilian stalker: Beer is the solution; I just need to hang out with him and his friends and party a bit.
My host sister (10): I don’t play enough soccer with her.
My host father: I didn’t wear shoes when I went to brush my teeth the other night.

Despite my almost constant sickness I’m having a pretty incredible time. We only have another week and a half in Sorata. The time is passing wayyyy to fast. I heard it snowed in Mass. That’s crazy! I love you all!

Evo!

1) Evo Morales (the president of Bolivia) is comming to Sorata tomorrow and will be speaking in the Plaza. Awesome birthday present!

2) I wrote a blog update today but have to figure out how to upload it to the internet. Hopefully it´ll happen tomorrow.

Love you all!

Sorata

this was supposed to be the title of the last post...computer issues

So

I'm sitting in my program house in Sorata gazing out at the beautiful mountains and using Helen's computer to write this email. Later I'll trek up the uber steep hill to the plaza and put this on the internet.

Hi all. Apologies for the lapse in updates. I've been busy experiencing Bolivia! Since the last update the group traveled to Santiago de Acolla, a small village on the shores of lake Titicaca for three nights of home stayssstrekkedededed in Apola Bomba for a week, ending in Kata for two nighhome stays. After two nights in La Paz to shower, do laundry, use the internet, go to the doctor, and eat some good gringo food we are now in the small city of Sorata for three weeks. Since last update I've: gone the longest I can remember going without a shower, 11 days; been to visit yet another doctor (the inspirations for my independent study project); rode a mule through the Andes; risen at 3:30 to go fishing on Lake Titicaca (one of the most breathtaking experiences I've ever had); suffered from altitude sickness, an absolutelyy miserable experience; summited spectacularmountainss; struggled to relate on a human level to the dying woman in a pile of rags on my 'bedroom' floor, but succeeded; seen a guinea pig sacrificed in a traditional ceremony; eaten guinea pig; slept in a room full of guinea pigs; talked with countless amazing people; spent hours (days?) on cramped and smelly buses, eaten tons of potatoes.

We are now in Sorata a small city nestled in a valley. We are about to complete or first week of a three week home stay. While we are here we have four hours of Spanish classes every morning, we eat lunch with our families and then have the afternoon free. We can read, work on our independent study projects, explore the surrounding mountains, spend time with our families, take weaving lessons, talk with people about life, work in the garden at the program house etc.....

My family is wonderful. The mother works in the market selling fruits and vegetables so I spend many hours sitting and chatting with her, the other women, and the customers (added bonus, I get to eat lots of fresh fruit, not many vegetables, however). My 10 year old sister has designated herself my official protector. She yells at any gringo who comes over to talk to me. Quite entertaining. I also have a 15 year old sister who plans on becoming a doctor, and 12 year old brother who would be quite happy to be playing soccer 24/7, and an adorable 3 year old brother who loves to climb all over me and my stuff.

At night I play soccer or volleyball with the children in my neighborhood. The street that we play on makes what would otherwise be a simple game quite complicated. We play on a steep dirt hill, with lots of rock, huge ruts, and rubbish. My fear of breaking my ankle is compounded by the lack of light. I have however, proven myself to be an excellent goal keeper, a job that involves much less chance of ankle breaking.

The town is beautiful. An old colonial town with a gorgeous old church nestled between regal mountains. Each morning the fog clears to reveal an ever changing view of Illampu, a snow capped mountain that is the basis of many local myths. The other surrounding mountains are beginning to change from dry and barren to lush and green as the rainy season begins (as they green the many terraces become visible). Every day and every hour as the light changes these regal mountains transform. At first I tried to capture the beautyyy with my camera but never could, now I simply try to soak them in and save them in my mind for my return to los estados unidos.

As of this week I've been in Bolivia for one month, a third of my total stay. All at once I can't believe I've been here for only a month, I feel like I've experienced so much, but I already feel like we're running out of time. There are so many things from home a miss but so many things from Bolivia I will miss equally. This week is the first time I have really thought of my bitter sweet return home.

Yesterday the group made a pact to only talk with each other in Spanish for five days. It'll be hard and possibly a little unpleasant at times, but good for us. Type two fun.

Today my family is making bread in their big adobe oven. Yummmmm. Tomorrow I'm going to cook for my family. I haven't decided what yet, something delicious and involving vegetables and maybe apple crisp.

I'm looking forward to the rest of my time in Sorata. Its nice to have a place that is beginning to feel like a home.

New Homestays

Dragons Admin. just posted new info about the group: "right now, the group is coming out of their trek through the magnificent Apolobamba mountains and entering into the small community of Kaata, where they will engage in a short 2-day homestays with local families. We expect them to be back in regular email communication in the next 5 days." Best of all (to this Mom) is that they report that EVERYONE in the group is in good health and high spirits.
.

To the Lake and Beyond

Here are the group's plans until October 3 (as posted on the Dragons website):

"We will leave Monday morning for Santiago de Okola, a small agricultural community on the western shore of Lake Titicaca. Following three days of homestays, agricultural activities and short hikes, we will continue north to the town of Pelechuco--in the heart of Apolobamba. From there, we will set out for five days on the trail, climbing over high passes and wandering through fertile valleys and highland grazing lands for llamas and alpacas. At the end of our trek, we plan to spend three days in a rural Quechua community, living and working with local families. It promises to be a challenging, grand adventure!Forgive us for being "out of touch" during this journey! We expect to return to La Paz on October 3rd, and we will continue on to our "home" in Sorata the following day."

Also from the website--a photo of the 12 participants and 3 instructors. (Emily in the back row.)

p.s.

The rain turned into huge crazy hail and i was almost robbed today (my pocket was unzipped, but i realized before they took anything!!!) .....a very interesting day overall

Hello,

we´re back in La Paz for two days buying food and suplies for our first big trek. Next we´ll go to Lake Titicaca for three days and then head out on our five day trek.
We took an overnight bus from Cochabamba last night and arrived in La Paz around 6. I rested for an hour and then headed out to try to see a doctor (my tonsils are acting up again). Three hours later plus one shot in my butt and three prescriptions I was back with the rest of the group eating salteñas, my favorite!
Right now its absolutly pooring rain. Its the first rain we´ve seen. I guess the rainy season is starting, which means lots of snow on our trek.
Leaving my homestay family is Cochabama was really sad. But i´m armed with emails and facebooks and threats from my grandmother if a fail to stay in touch. The uncle in my family is in a, actually quite good, band. Next time i have the chance I´ll post the link to one of the music videos.
I´m going to head out on a prescription buying adventure in a few minutes and later in the day will head to the market to buys a stove, pots, bowls, spoons, mugs, etc. for our group.
Much love to everyone!!!
p.s. if anyone is skilled at skype and wants to send me some basic directions on how to set up an account/how to use it, i would be super greatful! (I´ll bring you something really cool from Bolivia!) Skype works in many internet places and is definatly the most economical way to call home.

FOOD

The first thing anyone should know about Cochamaba is that its the eating capital of Boliva. Cochabambitas love nothing more than to eat delicious food. I´ve been busy sampling all kinds of food both in my homestay and on the streets.

In my homestay lunch is the biggest meal of the day. Sopa y sugondo. My abuela is soup master! The soup normally has fresh veggies, some of which are familiar and some of which are new to me. But all are delicious. Segundo is some combination of potatoes, pasta, rice, and a little meat. Normally delicious, but always and overload of white carbs. There is always some kind of refresco made from anything from piña to barley to dried peaches to sesame. sometimes deliciously refreshing, sometimes very.....interesting. Dinner is tiny and consists of leftovers from lunch. Breakfast is a piece of bread with jam and some tea (we had peanut butter for a while which made it so much better but that was finsished a few days ago). In summary, lots of white carbs, which often leave me feeling hungry soon after eating. Today I´m going to venture to a supermarket in hopes of diversifying my diet a bit.

Traditional (and delicious) food from Cochabamba: Pica Macho; always to share, a big plate of beef, hot dogs, eggs, tomateos, onions, potatoes, with ketchup and mayonayse. Grilled cow heart (i can´t remember the name in spanish); surprisingly delicious, thin strips of cow heart served with potatoes and spicy peanut sauce. Salteñas; yummmm pockets of dough filled with a spicy mix of beef and veggies, a traditional midmorning snack. and many more.

Yesteday was american food day. There was lots of family around the house as monday was a Cochabamba´s holiday. My 25 yr old uncle made 13 amazing pizzas. My favorite had corn and ham. At the urging of the entire family, after gorging on pizza, I made a batch of cream cheese brownies for my family. They turned out pretty well and were thouroughly enjoyed. (difficulties encountered: i couldn´t find baking chocolate anywhere; i used a strange version of margarine rather than butter; altitude; the only controll on the oven is on or off, there´s no such thing as temperature controll).

I´m loving my time here! If you made it though this unedited ramble about food i´m impressed. Thanks for reading!

Small World

Yesterday I had a phone call from Benjamin in Alaska telling me to get online so that I could Facebook chat with Emily. Wow! Fun to chat--she's very positive about her homestay family, leaders, group, and a meat-filled pastry. Today they were to visit Inca ruins.

Hi all!

Fourth day in Bolivia. I´m sooo excited to be here. We´ve left the rather idillic, if a little cultish, commune where we had orrientation to start homestays in the city of Cochabamba (sp?). My family is wonderful! I´m living with an extended family, grandmother, children, nephews, housekeeper. The house is quite large (by Bolivian standards) and has a hotish indoor shower! I´m not sure that I have seen all of it yet. So far food has been good. (only one lunch but the vegetable soup was splendid). The neighborhood for the homestays is ¨muy tranquillo¨ upper middle class, very safe feeling.

I´ve been practicing spanish. I had a long conversation with my host brother/uncle and did quite well.

News on coca leaves. Not very exciting. Some people claim that they are a miracle cure all (anything from altitiude, to staying awake, to falling asleep). In my experience its pretty similar to what i would imagine chewing a bunch of maple leaves would be like, though the tea is quite soothing.

The next week will consist of time with my family, language classes, and excursions with the group. I should be able to have regular internet access and may even be able to make a call home (mom!) Its posslible I´ll even figure out how to upload a photo.

Love getting emails and comments. Hope all is well back in the US!

p.s. story to come when i have some more time: the bus ride to Quillacolla (sp?) and the boy who peed in a bottle

Feet on South American Soil

Emily called this morning to report that she had arrived in La Paz. She was embarking upon a 7 hour bus ride to Cochabamba. The itinerary I have (always subject to change) says that they will be spending a few days together at Casa de la Crianza, "a beautiful, inspiring peaceful place about a half hour outside of the city itself." They plan to dive into workshops on group dynamics, Andean Cosmo vision, social movements, advocacy, and some basic language lessons.

Miami Bound

I dropped Emily at Logan Airport. She has a flight to Miami, and then a flight to La Paz, Bolivia. In this photo she is wearing the Dragons "t" to help connect with the 11 other team members in Miami and her boots are untied for going through security. (This post written by Susan.)

Final Packing

In what may be Amazonian style, my snake, Zither, is helping to compress the contents of my pack so that everything will fit into what seems like a very small space for three months of adventuring. My focus will be shifting from what to put into the pack to what's outside the pack--unknown wonders ahead!