So

I'm sitting in my program house in Sorata gazing out at the beautiful mountains and using Helen's computer to write this email. Later I'll trek up the uber steep hill to the plaza and put this on the internet.

Hi all. Apologies for the lapse in updates. I've been busy experiencing Bolivia! Since the last update the group traveled to Santiago de Acolla, a small village on the shores of lake Titicaca for three nights of home stayssstrekkedededed in Apola Bomba for a week, ending in Kata for two nighhome stays. After two nights in La Paz to shower, do laundry, use the internet, go to the doctor, and eat some good gringo food we are now in the small city of Sorata for three weeks. Since last update I've: gone the longest I can remember going without a shower, 11 days; been to visit yet another doctor (the inspirations for my independent study project); rode a mule through the Andes; risen at 3:30 to go fishing on Lake Titicaca (one of the most breathtaking experiences I've ever had); suffered from altitude sickness, an absolutelyy miserable experience; summited spectacularmountainss; struggled to relate on a human level to the dying woman in a pile of rags on my 'bedroom' floor, but succeeded; seen a guinea pig sacrificed in a traditional ceremony; eaten guinea pig; slept in a room full of guinea pigs; talked with countless amazing people; spent hours (days?) on cramped and smelly buses, eaten tons of potatoes.

We are now in Sorata a small city nestled in a valley. We are about to complete or first week of a three week home stay. While we are here we have four hours of Spanish classes every morning, we eat lunch with our families and then have the afternoon free. We can read, work on our independent study projects, explore the surrounding mountains, spend time with our families, take weaving lessons, talk with people about life, work in the garden at the program house etc.....

My family is wonderful. The mother works in the market selling fruits and vegetables so I spend many hours sitting and chatting with her, the other women, and the customers (added bonus, I get to eat lots of fresh fruit, not many vegetables, however). My 10 year old sister has designated herself my official protector. She yells at any gringo who comes over to talk to me. Quite entertaining. I also have a 15 year old sister who plans on becoming a doctor, and 12 year old brother who would be quite happy to be playing soccer 24/7, and an adorable 3 year old brother who loves to climb all over me and my stuff.

At night I play soccer or volleyball with the children in my neighborhood. The street that we play on makes what would otherwise be a simple game quite complicated. We play on a steep dirt hill, with lots of rock, huge ruts, and rubbish. My fear of breaking my ankle is compounded by the lack of light. I have however, proven myself to be an excellent goal keeper, a job that involves much less chance of ankle breaking.

The town is beautiful. An old colonial town with a gorgeous old church nestled between regal mountains. Each morning the fog clears to reveal an ever changing view of Illampu, a snow capped mountain that is the basis of many local myths. The other surrounding mountains are beginning to change from dry and barren to lush and green as the rainy season begins (as they green the many terraces become visible). Every day and every hour as the light changes these regal mountains transform. At first I tried to capture the beautyyy with my camera but never could, now I simply try to soak them in and save them in my mind for my return to los estados unidos.

As of this week I've been in Bolivia for one month, a third of my total stay. All at once I can't believe I've been here for only a month, I feel like I've experienced so much, but I already feel like we're running out of time. There are so many things from home a miss but so many things from Bolivia I will miss equally. This week is the first time I have really thought of my bitter sweet return home.

Yesterday the group made a pact to only talk with each other in Spanish for five days. It'll be hard and possibly a little unpleasant at times, but good for us. Type two fun.

Today my family is making bread in their big adobe oven. Yummmmm. Tomorrow I'm going to cook for my family. I haven't decided what yet, something delicious and involving vegetables and maybe apple crisp.

I'm looking forward to the rest of my time in Sorata. Its nice to have a place that is beginning to feel like a home.